Winter Suit

When the snow starts falling and the temperature in the thermometer drops way low, often times fashion goes right out the window. While its understandable to trade aesthetics for functionality, it isn't necessarily needed when it comes to the realm of men's suits. For many parts of the country, putting together a winter business wardrobe is a stylish way of keeping warm that is all too often overlooked. If you enjoy men's suits, one thing is for sure, you will enjoy keeping warm and cozy in the richness of textures and patterns available in the winter suiting fabrics.

It All Starts with the Fabrics

For winter, suits require a heavy and big type cloth, stuff that is all at once beefy and elegant. Most suits made for winter in the US features nothing more than heavy gabardine, which just creates a heavy look that doesn't drape well at all. Another down side to this is that most finely finished wool doesn't preform well in the elements. Snow and Rain have tendency to break down the yarn of these "high twist" suit fabrics causing a fuzzy texture and when pressed, a shiny finish.

The best winter suits feature variations of English tweed and flannel. Both are hard to describe but instantly recognizable, incredibly elegant and when worn during winter, very, very functional. Tweed features a "mill" finish that gives it its distinct look. The way the yarn is twisted creates a soft and naturally weather resistant barrier that keeps moisture out but heat in. When the yarn is woven it seem to be a blending of different shades, which creates the rich depth of color. Flannel is a finer more "finished" version of tweed, created to be more suitable for the offices and courtrooms, than the sporting beginnings of the original. Also naturally weather resistant, Flannel creates a lighter look with out giving up the functionality. Flannel is more commonly seen today, while tweed, on the other hand, is almost non existent in off the rack brands. This forces aficionados to look towards tailored custom suits for their tweed fix.


The Cut of a Winter Suit

When choosing the best cut for your winter suit, look for something that is less constructed and a little roomier than your fall and spring clothing. The reason for an unconstructed suit is that the heavier fabrics will be able to give the suit body and shape with out the need for much canvas or padding. This is ideal for those wanting the look of a winter suit with out the bulk. A roomier fit, on the other hand, is recommend to allow for a little more layering. Sweaters, scarves and gloves are all the winter wardrobe mainstays and you will need a little more room to layer it all and still be comfortable.

Chris Vance is the senior trends and fashion spotter for Requisite clothing, a custom clothing design house specializing in custom suits, custom shirts, custom tuxedos and sports wear for both men and women.


We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Important Points Need To Consider While Selecting Double Breasted Suit

The return of the much-hyped original 1980’s power suit is slated for this fall season. Most of the major designers of men’s apparels, ranging from Armani, Zegna and Tom Ford, featured their double-breasted suit in their collections during the recent NY fashion week. While what may seem, at first, the same piece as that of the 80’s power suit, many major differences, in abundant measure, can be noted in this latest incarnation of the double-breasted suit which makes it a more trendy piece of clothing.

The double-breasted suit dates back to a time much earlier than the 1980’s. It is remembered as a Reagan era suit which one would wear when he meant business. The main point is that these suits were cut the 80’s way as it featured wider lapels, huge shoulder padding, low button stances, triple-pleated trousers and a high rise. Slim and trim, tailored silhouette forms today’s modern double-breasted suit’s best design. In simple words, there is a huge difference between the 1980’s version and today’s.

Darker colors are always the way to go. This is one fact that hasn’t changed all through the years when it comes to double-breasted suits. A darker suit matches almost everybody’s skin tone and also conveys the expression of authority. Almost every CEO owns a closet full of dark suits. Choose a suit in either a dark black charcoal or a navy blue color. Soft and subtle patterns go well with double-breasted suits as they don’t necessarily require help from any type of bold fabrics and also manage to attract enough attention.

Double-breasted suits can be kept buttoned which in turn will give you a slim look. Consider wearing a tie along with the suit even though it would seem a little stuffy. But, then again, this is another reason why the double-breasted suits became the power suit of the 1980’s and 30 years later too, it is still said to be so.


A double-breasted suit has two rows of buttons and the front overlaps sufficiently to allow both flaps to be attached to the opposite row of buttons. Tall and thin gentlemen would benefit greatly from double-breasted suits as these suits would give them a matching appearance to their physique. These suits can however draw attention to the midsection in the case of men of heavy stock. Therefore, careful attention is required and an expert tailor must be employed.

Lapels can be found with a number of options in a variety of styles. The width of the lapels is always considered an important factor with the extremely-narrow lapels of the 1950’s standing in stark contrast to the excessively-wide lapels of the 1970’s. However, lapels of moderate width are considered timeless in the case of classic fashion. Suit lapels also come in two styles in accordance with different widths. The two styles are: notched, which has a wide V-shaped opening where the lapel and collar join; and peaked, which flares out in a sharp point with a very narrow deep V at the joint. Both notched and peaked lapels are equally classic. Although peaked lapels are often found on double-breasted jackets.

The flap-like slits found at the bottom of the jacket which accommodate movement and offer easy access to the trouser pockets are known as vents. Jackets usually have three styles: center, side, and none. Ventless jackets, just as the name implies, have no vents, and are popular on Continental suits. Even though it can lead to wrinkling when the wearer sits down, they provide a sleek look to the back of the jacket. Center-vented jackets, usually very popular on American suits, have only a single slit at the back, allowing the jacket to expand at the bottom when sitting. A side-vented jacket has two vents, one on either side, generally just behind the trouser pockets, to provide easy access.

These are some of the points that need to be taken into consideration before selecting a double-breasted suit

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Groom Tuxedos For Wedding Cermonies

of a wedding ceremony in the presence of parents, friends and relatives is definitely exciting. A wedding is special in everyone’s life. On this special occasion, the bride looks spectacular in a wedding gown, while the groom looks grand by wearing a tuxedo. Groom tuxedos play an important role in a wedding ceremony. Depending on the vests, dress style and shirt design, tuxedos should be selected to match. Men are more passionate, they have a desire of becoming the center of attraction on their wedding ceremony.

Groom tuxedos are made of special materials. These tuxedos are designed by professional fashion designers. They are designed with utmost care so that grooms look smart at the time of their wedding. Different types of tuxedos like formal Groom tuxedos, traditional groom tuxedos, black wedding tuxedos, etc, are available in the market. Generally in a wedding ceremony, a bride dominates the scene by wearing stylish wedding gowns, and brighter wedding jewelry. In order to match her fashion, and gather attention from visitors, a groom should wear a modern tuxedo.


Depending on the personality of a groom, his tuxedo can be selected. Grooms who have a lean appearance should look for single breasted jackets having long lines, wide peak lapels and low stance buttons. Options like double breasted groom tuxedos or a subtle pattern vest and tie that can be used by slender men. Shorter grooms should select athletic Groom tuxedos. Athletic groom tuxedos, match with appearance of short men. They fit well, and appear more dignified. In order to bring style for short men, athletic tuxedos are fitted with buttons at the bottom.

Tall and handsome grooms use different Groom tuxedos. These people prefer shawl collar tuxedos. Shawl collar tuxedos match the height and personality of a tall groom. Jacket length plays an important role in case of tall men. The size of the jacket should be long enough to fit his hands comfortably. Grooms, who have a thick neck and wide face, should avoid wearing a tie on these tuxedos. Wearing a tie spoils the appearance of the tuxedo. Tall and slim grooms should prefer double breasted groom tuxedos. These tuxedos have jacket buttons at the top.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Topstitching or Edge Stitching On Lapels And Pockets

What is it?
Topstitching is a single or multiple set of lines of stitching showcased on the garment right side, either for decorative or functional purposes. It's found on many types of garments, from sporty to formal, tailored to heirloom. The term is often used interchangeably with edge stitching, though generally topstitching refers to a stitching line about 1/4" from the edge or a style line, such as seaming or pockets. Edge stitching, as its name suggests, is done very close to the edge. Occasionally, both types of stitching are used in a single design area. For example, a collar may be both edge stitched and topstitched. Topstitching helps to hold garment layers in place and keep edges flat, or it may be a means of attachment for a design feature, like a pocket or band. On a collar or lapel edge, the added stitching keeps facings rolled under and gives a structured look.

Thread Tricks
Because topstitching is meant to be seen as a design detail, it's often done with a contrast and/or heavy weight of thread for prominence. Many thread companies make a "topstitching weight" in basic colors, and a sometimes in a variety of fibers, including silk.

Topstitching can also be done using regular sewing-weight thread, either in a matching or contrasting color. It's also possible to put two all-purpose threads through a single needle to make a more visible stitching line.

Stitch Smarts
Most topstitching is sewn with a straight stitch, using a slightly longer length than is used for garment construction. When using topstitching thread, it's imperative to lengthen the stitch to create a good quality stitch.
Topstitching can also be done using a triple straight stitch, where the machine actually stitches backward and forward in the same line, creating a more prominent look.
Decorative machine stitches can be used for topstitching if they seem appropriate to the garment styling.

Thinking Straight
Since topstitching is highly visible, it's important that the stitching lines are perfectly straight. Most machines have a presser foot where the distance from the needle to the foot edge is 1/4", which can be used as a guide.
Some machine brands also offer a 1/4" topstitching foot, with a raised edge guide, either fixed or adjustable.

Twice as Nice
Topstitching can also be done using a twin needle to create two rows of straight stitching on the garment right side, spanned by a zigzag on the underside. The two threads may be the same or differing colors. This technique is often used on knits for hemming.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

What To Wear With Men Blazer Jacket

The beauty of the men's blazer is that it goes with almost anything. For the purpose of this discourse, by blazer we mean a classic single-breasted navy wool coat with brass buttons. Over gray flannel slacks, a white button-down oxford shirt and a striped tie, it makes a classic outfit that in the United States registers just shy of a suit on the formality scale. On the weekend, the same blazer over chinos and a polo shirt makes a very smart casual outfit. In this article we will discuss some basic means of wearing a men's blazer jacket for work and leisure.

If you work in a business casual office, the blazer gives you a simple solution to the tricky problem of dressing respectably without appearing aloof. In a workplace dominated by polo shirts and khakis, the man who has the class to throw a blazer on over the ensemble looks distinctive without standing out. A dress shirt with a button-down collar and gray flannels are also worthy accompaniments for a blazer; add a tie to take it up a notch. A point collar shirt formalizes the ensemble a tad more, and here one should stop. Contrast collars really belong under a suit, and even if the formality of French cuffs were not an issue, having cuff-links next to brass sleeve buttons creates a discordant clash. For footwear, bluchers, loafers, and monk-strap dress shoes are all good options.

The outfits described above are also smart choices for dinner in a nice restaurant or a morning religious service. In fact, the blazer will serve you well for most weekend activities, from taking in a play in most American cities to cheering on a girls' softball team. It looks aristocratic and dignified over an ecru turtleneck and your trusty gray flannels; for a laid-back look in the summer wear it with off-white pants and a bright polo. While it is perfectly acceptable to wear a blazer with jeans, and indeed the combination can look very stylish, one must take care that pants and coat are not too close in color. This goes for any jacket and pants combination: if it's not a suit, it shouldn't look like one from a distance.


When it comes to dress shirts, as said above a button-down oxford is the classic. Besides solids, a broad variety of stripes and checks, including many that would look garish with a suit, mix well with a blazer. The latter's dark, solid fabric looks good next to just about anything, and the shiny buttons amply counterweight bold patterns. For a more casual look go with a long-sleeve polo shirt or a turtleneck depending on the climate. The urbane silk tee-shirt and tight-fitting knit shirt tend to clash in their modernity with the blazer's long heritage, and work better with a suit jacket.

In cooler weather, you way want to don a sweater under your blazer jacket. If you're going without a tie, a cable-knit or argyle crew-neck will add some life to the outfit. The V-neck worn over a tie may also be patterned or textured, but can be solid as well.

A few words on neckwear and accessories: the tie you wear with a blazer should be in

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Invest In Custom Clothing - It Pays

The Importance of Proper Fit

Dress clothes should always be comfortable. If they are not, it is the fault of the clothes' fit, and not of their nature. If the fit of a garment makes its wearer uncomfortable, he will look it; indeed a man looks his best when his clothes fit so well he barely notices them. The clothes send a message to the world about you, and if they fit is well, then it will always make a good impression.

Unfortunately most men today wear poorly fitting clothes; it's not their fault though, as that the clothing sold in stores is cut to fit as many people as possible. When buying a garment the retailer is often of little help, as that the department stores rarely have a salesman on staff that has a deep understanding of fit. Thus as in so many things it falls to each person to take responsibility for the fit of his own clothes and not to be swayed by the prolific selection of poor choices or the dubious influence of models or salesmen.

Proper Fit - Dress Shirt

A dress shirt's yoke or shoulders should cover the shoulders and nothing more; the shoulder point should not extend down his sleeves. As for the sleeves, you want a shirt with enough fabric so that when you rotate your arms and hold them out from your sides all of your arm remains covered; close fitting cuffs will help with this. You want anywhere from 3 to 6 inches of play in both your stomach and chest areas, and the shirt should be long enough so that when you bend over it doesn't un-tuck from the back or sides. Finally, the neck collar, when buttoned, should be tight enough to fit no more than two fingers in the space between collar and skin.

Proper Fit - Suit Jacket

A jacket must fit correctly in the chest and shoulders, as that these are very difficult to alter and in some situations downright impossible to adjust. When you stand with your jacket buttoned and arms hanging at your sides, the jacket's lapels should lie flat against the front panels, the buttons should hang close to or rest lightly on your stomach, and your biceps should just barely break the drape of sleeve from shoulder. If you tug on the top button, you should have enough room to easily slide your hand in between your lapels and chest, but not enough room so you can slide in your fist. As for your stomach, you should not be able to see it pull more than 3 inches from your belly. Of course, all of this depends on the fit you feel comfortable with. Sleeve length should end at about the wrist, although the exact point is also a matter of taste. As for the relationship between the shirt and the jacket: The shirt's cuffs should protrude approximately ½ inch from the jacket's sleeves when you stand with arms hanging. The shirt's collar should protrude about ½ -1 inch above the jacket collar, with both of them slightly touching.


Proper Fit - Trousers

Pants or trousers should be worn at the natural waist, near the navel. Young people with flat stomachs may choose to wear them lower but they gain little in doing so. The man with a belly, on the other hand, looks much better with high-rise trousers draping from his middle than with his stomach spilling over a low-rise waistband; for this he should consider suspenders. Trouser bottoms should touch the upper part of the front of the shoes and should brush the top edge of the sole at the shoe back; a single break in the front is considered perfect by most, but shorter pant legs that just brush the tops of the shoes can look better on the shorter person.
Shorter men tend to do better without cuffs on their trousers, but should they want them they should be in proportion to their stature.

How to get the perfect fit?

Off-the-rack clothing is designed for the hypothetical model - for each brand, this person's dimensions change a bit, but unfortunately these measurements are never very close to yours. How can you get a proper fit?

Your alteration specialist - A good alteration specialist can do wonders for clothing that somewhat fits you. They can bring in waists, shorten sleeves, and open up room in the stomach after the holidays. The limit here is that they can often only alter an imperfect garment; in the end it is still imperfect.

Invest in Custom Clothing - Notice I use the term invest; this is because owning clothing that is made to compliment your features is a smart move for anyone. The beauty of custom clothing is that it is designed with your measurements; by its very nature it fits you better than anything else in your closet, and as a result will look better than anything you've ever worn.

It is a wonderful feeling to wear garments that fit you perfectly. One feels light and comfortable as the clothes seem to float around the body, neither heavy nor tight anywhere but rather resting evenly throughout. A person in clothing that fits feels confident and free to focus on the task at hand.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

How To Dress Within Your Industry Norms

Dressing appropriately in today’s workplace is essential. Your clothes are the first impression you make whether on a job interview, representing your firm to a new client, or making a presentation within your company. But today the simple act of dressing can be confusing. Mistakes can be costly not only to you budget, but to your career.

Industry guidelines
The guidelines which you are about to read tend to be consistent within each profession. Key is to Dress conservatively while interviewing, and, once you get the job, be alert. Each office has a distinct culture and fashion slang with it.

ACADEMIC
Whether the job is dean of students or tenured professor, the academic dress code is the same: Business casual. That means tailored, presentable pieces that are authoritative but still approachable. Geography and, at time, the nature of the school will determine the exact interpretation. A Columbia biology professor situated in uptown New York City is likely to dress differently from her counterpart at the New Hampshire-based Dartmouth. There is the same slogan: "I dress to inspire confidence, to let people know I'm a professional who hasn't just come on the scene."

CONSULTING
A consultant should dress to establish herself as a figure of authority with the company for whom she's consulting. Generally, this means a custom tailored suit. Dressing professionally can serve another key purpose for those giving advice. It helps ensure they'll look worthy of the money the company is shelling out for the outside expertise.

RETAIL
A retail salesperson's appearance should represent the merchandise she is selling and the caliber of her clientele. Someone selling khakis a cotton twill trouser will dress differently from her counterpart in designer sportswear.

SERVICE INDUSTRY
Service positions-hotel managers, restaurants workers-often require a uniform. Otherwise, the rule of thumb is to wear crisp, well-ironed, and presentable clothes that fall into the business casual or business appropriate range, depending on the position.

ADVERTISING
Like many creative media, the dress code in advertising tends to be corporate creative.
For entry-level positions, that means whatever is in fashion at the moment-low-rider pants or ladylike dresses.
Mid level employees take liberties within a corporate casual to business appropriate range; you see the look: a lot of leather and a purple suede shirt worn with three or four long gold necklaces.
Senior executives dress with similar diversity, in everything from designer suit to devil-may-care denim.
Clearly, the more conservative the firm or a particular client -the more conservative the dress

FINANCIAL
While skirt suits, stockings, and high heels were once the norm, investment banking and its financial counterparts have slightly loosened their dress demands in recent years. A pantsuit is fine. Investment bankers and financiers like to present an image of power and also monetary success to their clients, and so a business appropriate look is the key. In New York suits or a look approximating it is common. But location is everything.
In San Francisco; where slacks, a jacket and a sweater or a blouse is common. Nobody seems to be wearing hose or heels. You do see business skirts. If someone has a meeting, the look will be more suit like. But in general people wear a more casual look.


MEDICINE
Some of the policies describe the medical dress code as ‘tasteful and professional’. What it means is no low-end; yes they give an actual number measurement for their dress. They have to wear a white coat at all times. Underneath it are suits or pants or a dress, all tailored to fit perfectly and well ironed.

LAW
While law and banking are considered the last bastions of truly formal business attire, even their staunch guidelines have softened in recent years. In metropolitan regions, a suit is commonplace, and closed-toe shoes and stocking legs are required. These and other particulars -including skirt length, Friday dress, and court room attire are governed by the mandates of each individual firm. If you're too polished, people could perceive you as pandering or condescending. That doesn't advance the ball.

MEDIA
Jobs in the media-television and film production, magazine publishing-generally inspires a creative take on business attire. Translation; Suits with an edge. Associate appropriate attire, down wear business appropriate attire, often with a hip twist.
Editors and assistants tend to follow suit. The magazine dress code tends to be business attire, often with a streak of high style.
It's rare for high style to wander into the hallowed halls of book editors, where the common dress is business casual to business appropriate. The marketing side of book publishing thrives on timeliness and trends, and stylish, business appropriate attire is a common uniform

REAL ESTATE
Clothes that enable your clients to relate to you, “The leather pants, a denim blazer, look like them so they can connect with you.” But as they say, location is everything. In contrast, a real estate agent working in a suburb of Chicago might wear a colorful suit, gold jewelry, and conservative heels.

PUBLIC RELATIONS
You have to satisfy those expectations down to the clothes, which mean suits with a dash of fashion. For those in non-executive PR positions, No matter what level the employee, however, one rule always applies: The nature of the client can sway the dress code. "If you're with a very corporate client, you have to know enough to streamline your look and be a little bit more conservative.”

ARCHITECTURE
The dress code in architecture is similar to that in advertising. No jeans, no sneakers, no T-shirts. Casual but neat, and more often than not, creative!! But when you go to any kind of client meeting, the dress is business attire. Translation: Suits. As with any industry, larger, more formal firms can often have more conservative dress codes.

ACCOUNTING
You are in a position of giving advice, and you get more respect when you dress appropriately. Generally, those in executive accounting positions tend to dress in corporate attire. But for all other accounting titles-book keepers, semi senior accounting firms may be corporate casual while larger firms to dress professionally, aka business appropriate.

INTERNET
The internet has evolved into just another medium, and the dress code is media dress. The styles are slightly edgier, there is more individuality. While anything-goes are still the rule at dot-coms, slacker khakis have begun to be traded in for cutting-edge fashion and the latest techno looks. You see heels, but they're not conservative, pumps- it's a thicker heel, an interesting toe.

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